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Arbroath

Fishing boats in Arbroath harbour at sunrise

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'A world class delicacy' - welcome to the home of Arbroath smokies.

Arbroath, settled in the 12th century, lies 15 miles to the north-east of Dundee. The attractive old harbour remains in action and long sandy beaches and stunning sandstone cliffs stretch out on either side of town.

The town's most famous product is the Arbroath smokie - line-caught haddock, smoke-cured over smouldering oak chips, and still made here in a number of family-run smokehouses tucked in around the harbour. One of the most approachable and atmospheric is MM Spink's tiny whitewashed premises at 10 Marketgate; chef and cookery writer Rick Stein described the fish here, warm from the smoke, as 'a world-class delicacy'.

Wander through the huddled cottages of the 'Fit o'the Toon' - the harbour district where the smell of Arbroath smokies usually hangs heavy in the air. Beyond it, the seafront road heads into Victoria Park; at the far end of the road, a path climbs up over the red sandstone cliffs of Whiting Ness, stretching endlessly onto the horizon and eroded into a multitude of inlets, caves and arches that warrant hours of leisurely exploration. The Arbroath Cliffs Nature Trail Guide, free from the tourist office, picks out 20 good viewing points along the first mile and a half, and also gives details on the local flora and fauna; you may even see puffins.